Where to place a mesh router?

A mesh node isn't a router — don't put it in the dead zone

The most common mistake when placing a mesh node: putting it exactly where the signal is weakest, because “that's where it's needed most.” The problem is that the node first has to receive a good signal from the router itself (the so-called backhaul link) before it has anything to pass on. A node in a dead zone doesn't escape it — it just retransmits a weak signal.

The “halfway, with a good link” rule

A good spot for a node is usually a point between the router and the area you want to cover — but still within range of a solid signal from the router. Practical tip: if your phone shows 2–3 bars of the router's signal at a given spot, that's probably a good location for a node. If the signal is already barely there, a node won't help much.

How many nodes do you need?

It depends on square footage, number of floors, and wall thickness — not the number of rooms. A small apartment with thin partition walls might not need mesh at all — a well-placed router is enough. A multi-storey house with concrete slabs may need an extra node for each floor you want to cover.

Avoid the same mistakes as with a router

A mesh node follows the same physics as a router: metal cabinets, mirrors, radiators, and placing it low near the floor all weaken its range. On top of that — two nodes placed too close together in a straight line is wasteful, since their ranges overlap instead of extending coverage.

How to verify a node's position

After placing a node, check the signal strength in two spots: right at the node itself (does it have a good link to the router) and in the target room it was meant to cover. If either of these shows a weak result, the node is in the wrong spot.

Perfect WiFi lets you plan this in advance — based on your floor plan, it checks whether a proposed node position will actually have a good link to the router, before you drill an outlet or move any furniture.